Monday, February 21, 2011

Time flies...fly times.

The weekly update:

School has been occupying way to much of my time. Whats the deal with that. I've been doing all sorts of work in the "Bat Labs" (Bond Uni computer labs) for my digital media design and editing class, and plenty of shooting and editing photos for my photography class. Madness. I know this is what I'm here for, but...I'm so over it. Going to class when its 80 an sunny out and always having there be some sort of a wave to surf right out front is a difficult task. I'm proud to say that I've yet to miss a class...but its not an easy thing to accomplish. 

I'm finally over my sinus infection. Shit lasted the whole duration of the first week of Feb. Too much water in my head is no bueno. I guess thats what I get for being in the water every chance I get, but how can you blame me?

For all the time that I haven't been doing work, I've been either surfing...or sitting my ass on the beach soaking up the sun. I'm beyond the base tan and now on my way to being in my Mexican skin-tone stage. Its not so much sun burn anymore...just a full on bake. By the time I start guarding this summer, I'll be a different race.

Here's a few highlights from this past week or so...

First off. After many hours of riding that Sideways nugget board...I'm over it. So what did I do? I hopped on the bus and traded it in. The guys at the shop know me by name now, so it didn't take much to find a performance short board and get myself a deal. After about 20 minutes and $250 later...I had myself another new stick. 6'1 x 18 1/4 x 2 1/4 Primal Surfboards and the thing is a beauty. Much more fun to ride out here. I couldn't be happier with it.

Despite all work and no play (thats not even remotely true, but just go along with it) there were some serious positive sides to this week (other than the new board). Thanks to my friend Matty, I got to have a sushi lunch with pro surfer, Dusty Payne. It was pretty awesome. He's a super nice kid, and really put me in my place when he showed me a picture of himself in a stand up barrel at Pipeline, 3 days before he arrived in Australia. He's got life figured out pretty good in my eyes. Another cool thing I got to do this week was cruise to Coolie and hang out for a few hours with Clay Marzo and a bunch of his friends at Clay's apartment. Its really a trip being over here and having the opportunity to not only meet all these people, but actually get to hang out with them like its no big deal. People have a lot to say about Clay, but after hanging out with him, he's just doing his own thing, and doesn't seem to be having a hard time at all.  He's super down to earth, and has a few good stories to tell. Quiksilver, hooking it up as always, put him up in a 6th floor apartment, overlooking Snapper rocks. All it takes for him to check the surf, is walk 10 feet from his bed to the edge of his balcony and look straight....if its good, he'll surf Snappa. If not, go get in the Quiksilver RV, Heli, boat...what ever else they have in their arsenal of vehicles out here... and he'll be taken to where ever its firing. Lucky bastard. If only...

Yet another highlight to my time here was spending two full days down in Burleigh at the Breaka Pro. I got to watch heaps of pros boosting and blowing the lip to pieces from the hill at Burleigh Heads. It was unreal. A huge plus to Aussie surf comps out here is the turn outs are awesome. So many people are out to check out the waves and watch some of the most talented surfers on the planet go crazy, doing what they do best. And let me add, girls love these things. The beach, sun, and surfers brings some of Australia's most beautiful women out of the woodwork. Add some classic barbies in the mix, my new board, surfing South Straddie again, getting a few barrels right out front, a few beers, and plenty of laughs with some mates, and I think its safe to say that I'm enjoying myself here.

Always thinking of my friends and family back home. I'm working on figuring out how to ship you guys some warmth...theres plenty to go around over here, especially these past couple days.

...A few wise words from Sublime.
"Summertime....and the livings easy."

Enjoy the visuals.

Primal 6'1 x 18 1/4 x 2 1/4
Silhouette. 
Simply blue. 
Sandy matters. 
Boonchu Thai...staple in my diet. 
A proper Goldy sunset.  
Clocking in some hours in the bat labs. 
Audi R8.
Ferrari in Broadie...usual sight. 
Parko surfs good. 
Bond night pic. 
Big hacks all day at the Breaka Pro. 
...all clear to land. 
Burleigh Breaka Pro.
Sunny Garcia throwing buckets. 
Broadbeach...the usual wave scene. 
Another one bites the dust. 

Monday, February 7, 2011

Superbowl Monday.

Today was Superbowl Monday. Yeah, here on the other side...shit gets all skewed like that. So while a majority of the American students headed to the bars at 9AM, I woke up to yet another new and eventful day down under. Heres the latest.....

This past last week was a bit of a blur. Time is really flying over here...I can't believe its already the first week in February...kind of scary to think I've only got 3 months left. Definitely a reality check in terms of staying focused on school...and to start planning some trips to experience how ever much of this side of the planet as I can.

The weather all last week was nothing short of perfect. Sunny and a minimum of 84 degrees, everyday (Saturday was like 90). Between walking around campus and spending the rest of my time at the beach...its impossible not to get sunburn. Who ever invented Sunscreen...good on ya. I attended Uni all last week. School is school, but my classes are going fine. Human Resource Mgmt. is my least favorite (so boring), but I really enjoy my photography class...that being said, I'm not really taking anything that challenging, so I shouldn't be complaining.

I went to an awesome little place called Currumbin earlier in the week. Its pretty much going into the bush (much of which we were warned about), because its up in the mountains and in the middle of no where, but the cool thing about it is a river that flows through rock pools...which have cliff jumps, rope swings, natural water slides and waterfalls (yea its a pretty amazing place). Unfortunately I didn't bring my camera because it was a spur of the moment adventure, but I will for sure next time. Shared a few good laughs due my buddy Matt "sharting" and using a leaf to tidy up his shorts. HAHA, such a clown but you gotta love em.

Haven't been doing too much surfing...waves have kind of gone to shit. A few times here and there, but the first time I've seen it "flat". It's funny because theres pretty much always some sort of swell to surf here, even the small waves still carry some power...I'm realizing how spoiled I am now when I go check the surf and its alright looking...but I just kinda go ehhh and walk away (if any wave out here was back home... I'd be tweaking to get in the water ASAP, always. ) Its gonna be a rude awaking upon my arrival back to Lake Atlantic. It's still plenty fun to body surf when the waves lay down a bit...and being as hot as it was, I was in the water a lot. That being said, I started to feel shitty...again, starting around Thursday. Well I thought it was just a head cold that I'd be able to shake off in a day or two, but come this morning...I was super congested and felt like death (first food poisoning, now this...wtf Australia?) I kinda had a haunch of what it was, and a trip to the doctor confirmed my prediction...sinus infection. Wonderful. Now I'm not allowed to submerge my head under water for A WEEK...how f--ked is that? No surfing, swimming...nothing. Complete torture. I'm not too happy about it...thats for sure, but I guess its not that surprising with the hours I've logged into the ocean on this side of the planet.

The only thing going to keep me sane this week are the 500+ movies I'm getting on my External HD from my buddy Matt. Such a big hookup...greatly appreciated, anddd the 15 photography assignments I have due in the next few weeks. Time to start shooting.


Enjoy some pictures (most taken as homework assignments, still some for fun).

Hope your all staying warm back home...its definitely a bit toasty over here.

The man behind the lens. 
Reflection shot...Vic's ghost snuck its way into the photo. 
Doing my homework.
Big pop from Victor. 
Broadbeach Convention Center parking garage....desolate.

Freshie.
Smooth sailing. 
Come on Ben...smile for the camera. 
Words of wisdom from Australia's youth...thanks DiDi.