I spent my entire weekend surfing. To no surprise, I showed up Friday morning to South Straddie and it was BLOWING UP. No A-frams this day....more like pyramids raging the shoreline. The waves were well overhead and it was super glassy. I got a few real good ones, but to say I got my ass handed to me is an understatement because an 8 foot face breaking in a foot and a half of water over the sandbar seems like it could pretty much rip your arm clean off your body...and you know I got pitched a few times into death zone. All in good fun. The remainder of my Friday was mellow as could be and I put an end to it early....I had big plans for the remainder of my weekend.
Saturday morning...5:45 AM...my alarm clock got my tired ass out of bed. I got some shit together, ate a little breakfast and then waited for my ride. I was off to Byron Bay. Now normally when someone says they're gonna be at your place at 6:30...you get ready to go at 6:30 so you don't keep anyone waiting....yea well I guess I got up a little early (my boys who I was going with, Matt, Jeff and Dash were just super late) because by the time we finally got on the road...it was 11:30.
Byron is an awesome place. Its about an hour south of here, but a world of a difference in terms of lifestyles. Everyone is just chillen....no joke. Kind of a little hippy town, the main town being littered with little shops, bars and cafes and its all based around the beach...which is miles long, with a big rock headland up at the point and sand, waves, and sunshine as far as the eye can see in the other direction. Its a beautiful place, and I can see now why everyone I met there was in the best mood and loving life....how could you not. Especially when we pulled up to the parking lot and watched peaky A-frames break in crystal clear blue water over the sandbars...everywhere. I definitely found myself loving Byron. The laid back, easy going way of living there is definitely more of my style. We surfed for about 5 hours on saturday. Walking all the way up the point and just drifting the whole length of the beach back to the parking lot (at least a mile or more)....where we would get out and hike back up to the point for another pass, getting plenty of waves along the way. It was so much fun, and the backdrop was pretty epic. Something I've learned with being here in Oz is that you never know what your going to come across. After watching a sea turtle cruise by me, soaking up some sun on the waters surface...I watched pro surfer, Dave Rastovich, style his way down a wave off the point, and ride it prolly 150 yards down the beach. Pretty cool to see, and he was definitely having just as much of a good time as I was. Around 7 PM, surfed out and arms feeling like rubber, I finally got out of the water. It was time to find some sleeping arrangements.
After checking around the area for a bit, we found a little place called the Holiday Village. We checked into our hostel, examined the room and then went and grabbed some food downtown. The hostels out here aren't half bad...clean, and fully accommodating. We met plenty of people staying there, shared a few beers, and then headed to a local surf bar called Woody's where we jammed out to some great music, watched featured surf films which were playing on flat screens round the room and met plenty of beautiful women from Sweden, Denmark, and Australia. Cheers to that.
Unfortunately we awoke to a bit of a flat spell in Byron in the morning. Nothing like what the day before had been. So after a bit of traveling up and down the coast in search of a wave...we decided to head back to Coolangatta. Here we pulled up to a crowded, but clean 3-5 foot Snapper. It was doing its usually thing, breaking off the point and pushing a consistent right hander pretty much all the way to Kirra. Not surprisingly, I found myself sitting in the lineup shoulder to shoulder with none other than pro surfers Parko and Occy. Yeah, well its not such a shocker for me to see these guys anymore (I'm getting a little spoiled in that aspect)...more of a normality....but watching them surf in person still blows my mind. Hopefully I'll be able to be at that level of surfing some day....or at least close to it. Watch and learn, right?
I didn't last very long in the water today. 1, because I was dead from surfing all day yesterday, and 2, because there was like 200 people surfing, making it a bit difficult to get a wave to yourself. So I took a nap on the beach instead, amongst a handful of beautiful, tan Australian woman...I might like it here a little bit.
As for now, I'm beat. It was a long, but awesome weekend. Another good memory logged in from this trip.
Took some pictures. Enjoy.
P.S...the flickr is up and running so now you can see the whole lot of pictures I took...mainly the good ones that is.
Love and miss my friends and family...thinking of you always.
 |
Packing the car. |
 |
Off we go. |
 |
And what a warm welcome it was. |
 |
Byron Bay. |
 |
The Wreck, Byron Bay. |
 |
Drainer. |
 |
Good times at Holiday Village. |
 |
Byron Light. |
 |
Spot check....not a bad view. |
 |
Not bad waking up to. |
 |
View from Cape Byron Headland Reserve. |
 |
Stairway to heaven... |