Sunday, January 16, 2011

How good can it get?

Dawn at Burleigh. 

The start of a good day.

Rainbow Bay.

Timing is key.  
Dredging. 

The lineup....before the lineup. 

Snapper....draw your line and go. 

Pocket nugget. 

OZ is so dope that even Atlantis exists here.

All day...check out the lip of that barrel...that guys in for a little beating.

Lookout spot. 

Greg Weatherall, on a good one. 

Stuffed it. 

Schhhwackkkk. 

All day. 

How good can it get?


4:30 am....my phone blew up....well not literally, but its what I thought happened when my alarm went off. Today was the day...time to see the Gold Coast fire. After only 4 hours of sleep Greg scooped me from my castle around 5:15 and we were off. We cruised by Burleigh first, super glassy and pretty big, I was all game for it... but for some reason Greg felt we could do better.

Boy was this dude right. As we pulled up to Rainbow Bay, why would there be anything less than, not one, but two rainbows touching down right over the point, which by the way, was easily 10 foot faces and reeling the down the point into Green Mount...(to say i was frothing is an understatement). I grabbed my board and around 6 am, paddled my way into the lineup where there was easily already 60 guys sitting.

The waves were macking and I prolly sat for maybe 10 minutes when I watched Mick Fanning drop in on an outside bomb, get shacked, throw about a 30 foot wall of water on his first turn and ride it all the way to Green Mount...the kinda shit you watch in a surf film, its way more wild to see firsthand. I was stoked, until I saw a fin come up maybe 2 feet from my board. My heart almost jumped outta my chest before I realized it was a pod of dolphin jumping and playing around in the surf. The surfers out there weren't the only ones stoked on this swell.

I caught a few waves, got housed good on one and then got pitched from the lip about 6 feet out into the flats...getting worked in about 3 feet of water by a 8-10 foot wave is not too much fun. My lack of sleep finally caught up with me and I headed back towards the beach.

For the 45 minutes or so that I waited for Greg to get outta the water I shot close to 450 photos. Plenty of sequence shots...there was no shortage of waves and everyone out was KILLING IT. Once Greg was out, we grabbed a quick chicken roll from this local bakery and headed back.

After a long, much needed nap, a wahoo burrito did me in right. I met up with two of my friend Matt's buddy's, Zach and Matty. They're Maui boys and are going to be some good company for the remainder of my stay here. No doubt about that. My first Sunday on the Gold Coast and it was EPIC, I will definitely never forget it.

School tomorrow...my first day at Bond Uni. Woohoo school! (not) Yet again, this is the reason I am here in the first place. Time to get a little responsibility in my 4 month holiday....dust off the old thinking cap for tomorrow.

Hope you enjoy the pictures as much as I enjoyed my day. I promise i'll get working on my Flickr....going through 1000 pictures takes a while.

1 comment:

  1. so glad you finally remembered you are there for more than just a surfer education! :)

    xoxoxo-AP

    ReplyDelete